Dressing for Yohji Yamamoto at the V&A "Fashion In Motion" catwalk

 

image courtesy of madewithjapan.com

Since 1999 the V&A have hosted a series of free catwalks as part of their long running "Fashion in Motion" events which coincide with current fashion exhibitions. The purpose is to give the public a chance to re-experience what is considered to be the current designer's "finest hour" through celebrating the designer's retrospective.

When we received the e-mail about this opportunity, there was no doubt in my mind to accept it and unfortunately Harriet was double-cast in a production of Little Voice on the Friday.  The fact that the Yojhi Yamamoto's actual Paris team was flying into London to make sure the show ran smoothly, which I admit made me quite nervous, was not the only reason this fashion show was different from previous shows I had dressed at. The fashion show, to mirror the Japanese designers 1999 collection, would be modelled by real-life couples. Previously couples were gathered off the streets of Paris, so the V&A made a search in London, in which most of the models picked ironically were French. Fate determining fashion, or is it that the French has a certain chic air which the English are unable to mirror?

Print with buddha, dogs, stars etc.
Image courtesy of Motilo blog

"Born in Tokyo, Yohji Yamamoto set up his own company Y’s Incorporated in 1972. His work has been fêted for challenging the conventions of fashion, the playful pieces feature asymmetric cuts and unusual silhouettes. His collections are also recognised for subverting gender stereotypes and have featured women wearing garments traditionally associated with menswear. Yamamoto's fabrics are central to his design practice and his textiles are created to specification often employing traditional Japanese dyeing and embroidery technique." (V&A)

The Models I dressed
Image courtesy of Polka Dot street style blog

Models are used to getting undressed in front of 30+ people they barely even know, it becomes part of  their norm, their job. Whereas everyone in the industry knows, and are used to seeing half-naked women and men around them and think nothing of it apart from it being their job, that real people can feel uncomfortable so you have to be "extra sensitive" i.e not ripping their clothes off if they only have 2 minutes to change. It's kind of funny that fashion shows are all about the clothes, yet for about half the time the clothes are not worn.

Yohji Yamamoto claims he creates 80% of the clothes, but the other 20% is solely shaped by the person wearing it, hence the reason why this show does not use the one concept percieved beauty in the fashion world which produces models of same heights, weights and looks. The attitude, undoubtedly, changes the style and the message that a person puts across. For example the photo above, her fresh-faced expression gives a certain elegance to a bright yellow, plastic blow-up skirt. It raises a question of do clothes transform the way we are or do we transform clothes?

Okay,  for instance take the numerous you I hear that Anne Hathaway is a "Style Star", yet all she does is put on an amazing haute couture gown pair it with simple diamond earrings, a slicked back bun and red lips, Old Hollywood style, and not even she can do that - it's her stylist Rachel Zoe! It's a formulae which will always result in a classic glamour, yet sometimes on the red carpet there's one person who steals the show, this is not solely down to the dress but also to the way they own that dress. That's what makes a good stylist a good stylist, making some-one feel fantastic in what they are wearing so they ooze confidence, the right attitude which creates a certain glow.

And yes, you do feel important going around the V&A with a badge on

I think all the models, by the fourth show, had got used to it as it pretty much becomes a routine and the changes are so fast their in and out of their clothes in minutes. A Royal College of Art MA graduate, Sarah, dressed the two French street-casted models. There were four catwalks throughout the day, with a prompt 10 o'clock start in which about 16 dressers carried the steamed 21 looks through the musuem to backstage. The looks had to be un-bagged and organised onto 8 rails infront of each model board displaying each look. I personally was assisting Marie, who had been a dresser at London Fashion Weekend with me but had the responsibility of backstage, where I sorted out each look with the appropriate accessories through the model board taken at the dress fitting previously. The models had a walk through and afterwards it was almost time for the 1st show at 1pm.

Throughout the catwalk shows we had to make sure all our models garments were steamed with no creases so that they were ready for the next show.

It must seem terrible to talk about food,  but if you've been to the V&A, you'll know how nice the food is. The whole team had sandwiches for lunch, and salmon with couscous and salad for dinner. Again, it was an valuable experience and I'd like to say thankyou to the V&A and the PR team and I recommend anyone to volunteer to dress, especially when you are able to see such a dynamic fashion house up close.


Below, some of my favourite looks we saw backstage...

The candy men - the definition of colour co-ordination.
"When I started a men's line in Paris, my message was very simple: let's be outside. Let's be far from our suits and ties. Let's be far from businessmen. Let's be vagabonds."



The unisex sexy
"...strong yet subtle at the same time, is essentially more seductive. The more she hides and abandons her femininity, the more it emerges from the very heart of her existence."

The Pumped-up Skirt
"I'm searching for a new proportion. What interests me is the 'space' between the person wearing the clothes and the clothes themselves - the airness, the movement, the silhouette."

The Yohji Yamamoto exhibition

In all honesty the exhibition could've been better laid out, as there was no sense of direction for a visitor as the clothes were all over the space (as pictured below). As well as the fact you could see the whole exhibition at a glance made it very hard to enjoy looking at one item because you wanted to see everything at once!
However there is no denying the clothes were captivating and magnificant in their design and cut, the way Yohji Yamamoto explores the 3rd dimension through pattern cutting makes this exhibition definitely worth visiting.


  

Yellow strapless silk dress and oversized coolie hat covered with draped silk. S/S 1997

   

All photographs courtesy of http://lapoubelleverte.com



Left: Black ruffled cape and black dress with crinoline in homage to Critsobel Balenciage S/S 1999
Right: Hound's-tooth jacket with puffed lower sleeves and long skirt in homage to Dior. S/S 1999



More from Fashion In Motion

Fashion in Motion - Kenzo

Erdem

Giles Deacon

Gareth Pugh

To find out more about who has shown since 1999 visit the V&A's Fashion In Motion page.

Note - Watch the show's live on the V&A Channel

E xx

Some clothes I wore today.

I've done so many drafts of outfit posts, but never publish them. They always seem a bit boring. But I've not had an average week, and many aspects of these photos correspond with that so hopefully this is a little more worthwhile... Last night was the performance of Jim Cartwright's 'The Rise and Fall of Little Voice' that a small cast of Inspire Academy over 16's have been working on for months. It's been the main occupant of my mind for ages, and as I was double cast as Mari, it was my night last night. Emotional evening to say the least, going to miss everyone and everything about it so much. We set it in the 1960's which was so fun, there were many trips to charity shops for set and costume shopping, and we had a record player on stage so that LV could sing along to the original records... I could go on about how much I loved this play forever. Felt strange to put on such a plain outfit this morning after and evening of lacquered hair and shift dresses. Despite the excitement and the wonderful audience I was a little sad that all of my girls were elsewhere - Evie in London, the rest in Zante, and a few family members unable to make it. My boy is also galavanting around Europe for a month with a ridiculously heavy rucksack (sure he's going to return looking a bit like Quasimodo), but gave me this 1970's radio before he left. Since, I've found a new appreciation for classical music, and am currently enjoying 70's Saturday on Gold. 

I suppose I should tell you about my clothes. I've been eyeing up these sandals for ages. They're Swedish Hasbeens for H&M and they're perfection to me, for reasons of maximum foot coverage (not a fan of feet, who is?), good Jesus:Fashion ratio, and the fact that they didn't break the bank - half price in fact. I'm only wearing one because I ran over my foot today with a rail at work, blood everywhere. Moving up: shorts. I never wear shorts. Nottingham is infested with girls in tiny high waisted denim shorts with their tanned stick legs allowing plenty of air space between their thighs and the material, and then there's me, going into the vintage shops, coming out in a sulk cause they don't have any I can get up past my knees. These are from Whistles, huge around the waist, but that only helped me stuff in this dress to wear it as a top. Basically, I liked them because they're the first pair I've tried that didn't make me feel like a beached whale. So here's me in the garden with my only friend left in the country, my dog. 

H x

Post face-lick, unimpressed.

Student Show Season - Designing a future

Every year around now, all art and design students exhibit their work, which is open to the public - a great way to get inspired, see free art and get a feel for the universities and colleges!

South Nottingham college has always had an amazing reputation for art and design with the students often achieving higher than average distinction rates,  with most if not all getting into the Uni of their choice, and comments that student's work is of higher calibre than some three year degree shows! During an intensive year they have a 'play' in all the different areas of art and design to find out where their real talent is and are guided through the UCAS process to apply for a three year degree course in their chosen subject.

Throughout this season Fashionstrand have frequently visited and have always been impressed by the work produced by South Nottingham College Art Foundation, so this year we thought it'd be interesting to interview the students about their perspective of the course.

P.s If you're thinking what is an art foundation? It is a post A-level one-year course for students who are interested in art and design, a qualification which is frequently required from universitys. 

Olivia Apinall, who has earned a place at Central Saint Martin's for textiles, tells us how South Nottingham College Art Foundation has "started me on a discipline that I love".

What was the theme for your eight week end of year project ?

Human movement in transitional space. I began studying human movement in train and tube stations and then manipulated this footage into textile pieces.

Why did you choose South Notts to do your foundation course?:

It was recommended  to me by a friend because of the excellent experience that she had had there.

What is the college site like to be student at?:

It is a very intimate site, you get to know everybody really quickly. It is a very creative environment.

What has your overall experience on the course been like?

EXCELLENT! It is a lot of hard work but equally rewarding.

Was financial support  made available?

I received a lot of financial support. I find that the college here are very good with helping out all students with financial funding.

Would you recommend this course - are you pleased you have done it?

Yes I am very pleased I have done this course. It has got me started on following a discipline that I love.

 Emma Bishop, who has been accepted at Brighten university for fashion design, exclaims "“Just do the course!”.

Here's Emma having "a good time" in Berlin.

What was the theme for your eight week end of year project ?
My title was ‘From New York to Southampton’. My starting point was a vintage suitcase which had some amazing features such as Queen Mary labels that had been stuck on it. I used the history and physical characteristics of the suitcase to inspire my garment.

Why did you choose South Notts to do your foundation course?:

I liked the idea of a smaller group -than other courses I had looked at in the area,  meaning more tutor contact and the chance to get to know everybody.

What is the college site like to be student at?:

The facilities are a really high standard and very varied, such as the screen print room . All the staff are always friendly and helpful.

What is the area of art and design that you have finally specialised in and what excites you about  this area?

Fashion design because i love being  able to translate my ideas and inspirations into a physical form that people can wear and appreciate. I am also interested in fashion as an art- not just the commercial side.

Have you been on any college trips and were they valuable?

Residential as well as day trips to London and Berlin were really useful to find new inspirations which are essential, and also to discover a new culture-and also just to have a good time!!

Would you recommend this course-are you pleased you have done it?

Definately, it has benefitted me in so many ways, it has been a vital experience.

 

Ryan Smith "gained a new outlook on life" through South Nottingham College. The furniture and product design student going on to progress his career at Leeds College of Art.

What was the theme for your eight week end of year project ?
"Waste and how to change it into beauty. I took bottle tops and made them into furniture and products like lighting and also made sculptures which i decorated an alley with –that led to my house."

What is the college site like to be student at?:

Really welcoming, you feel it is like a second home and you can talk to anyone.

What is the area of art and design that you have finally specialised in and what excites you about  this area?

Furniture and product design and fine art.  I like the ‘no limits’ feel of it all and the fact you can do anything you like.

What has your overall experience on the course been like?

I have really enjoyed myself and have learnt such a lot in a short period of time. It’s fun and  doesn’t really feel like work.

Have you made new friends?

Yes i got on really well with basically everyone as it is such an intimate year A few i would say are friends for life.

Was financial support  made available?

I did get help with my final show which was very useful.

Would you recommend this course-are you pleased you have done it?

YES!!! A great new outlook on life and a really productive year.

 Michael Dennis has built his way through a 'great learning experience' to Northumbria University to study furniture design.

Micheal guarding his door of matchsticks!

What was the theme for your eight week end of year project?

"I investigated all aspects of a pineapple for inspiration for a designs for doorways /doors. It ended up that I built the door full size-made out of matchsticks and perspex!" (see photo above)

Why did you choose South Notts to do your foundation course?:

My school teachers said this was the best and advised i choose this college.

What is the college site like to be student at?:

The materials are good and the workshops have great resources.

 What is the area of art and design that you have finally specialised in and what excites you about  this area?

3D design I am really into shape form function and aesthetics.

What has your overall experience on the course been like?

It has been a great learning experience.

Would you recommend this course-are you pleased you have done it?

Yes i would recommend the course and it has helped me progress on my pathway and has also informed me of the design industry.

  After a year of studing foundation at South Notts, Isobel Francis, going on to Manchester School of Art, describes the course as "life-changing".

Isobel, looking proud of her exhausts!

What was the theme for your eight week end of year project ?
"Sustainability in design/recycling. I wanted to collect and recycle clothing-I honed in specifically to working with tights and experimented principally with burning them and embroidering into them. I then wanted something 3d to give them form and resolved the idea of car exhausts-which I had to scrub(!) The tights were then pulled over the exhausts... I aimed to make a statement..."

Why did you choose South Notts to do your foundation course?

Good sense of community. Friendly tutors. Excellent results.

What is the college site like to be student at?

Relaxed. Intimate.

What has your overall experience on the course been like?

Intense yet exciting. Huge learning curve. Life changing.

Have you been on any college trips and were they valuable?

Yes extremely and they offered an insight into a different community and the experience helped inform our work.

Any other comments?

Art foundation has been an amazing year and I would highly recommend the course.

I have progressed both personally and creatively. I would strongly recommend this art foundation as it is a brilliant way to discover artistic strengths in a supportive environment.

Cherry Clarke, who came from NCN fashion, developed her "anti-fashion" approach to fashion through South Nottingham College Art Foundation, which achieved her a place studying menswear at Middlesex University, London.

What was the theme for your eight week end of year project ?

"Regeneration; Reintepretation. It is a repsonce to the current clmate in fashion and a resolution to maintaining individual style."

Why did you choose South Notts to do your foundation course?

Because they have very good teaching, with 4 tutors to 45 students. Also a grat pass rate and great portfolios.

What is the college site like to be student at?
It's safe, friendly and has a family environment.

What has your overall experience on the course been like?
Fantastic course, very good teaching and lots of one-to-one time with tutors. Exciting and opens your thinking.

Was financial support made available?
Financial support was great, I couldn't have managed without it.

Any other comments?

This course has really ehlped me develop and open my thinking. The facilities and teahcing is brilliant, I am so glad that I have come here, rather than any other foundation courses, in preparation for Uni.

 
South Notts College's students shows are avaliable to see until Tuesday at 4pm,  and even if you are unavaliable on that day, the course leaders have CD's of all the students work.
Any post A-level students who are interested in Art & Design, whether you have done art or not, should contact the foundation team for a friendly chat about the course on 0115 9146482 & speak to Claire, Ellie, Steve or Lesley.

We wish all the Art Foundation Students 2011 all the best in their future careers!

First look at Still Small Voice look-book photo shoot.

Last year I took part in a fashion show wearing dresses by Textiles graduates, Laura Smedley and Harriet Foster. Now, a year out of Nottingham Trent University, they have started their own label together: Still Small Voice. They recently asked me to wear their designs for the look-book, and of course I jumped at the opportunity to get in to some lovely dresses. As you can see, they really are the sweetest! 
Digitally printed on silk, each features a quirky illustrative pattern inspired by the animals displayed at Wollaton Hall. I'm not a big fan of oversized things usually, but adored both the styles of dress Harriet and Laura have opted for - they're both really wearable shapes and very adaptable to any occasion. Looking through the photos now I'm trying to pick a favourite but I actually can't... basically this is a very covetable collection, thoughtfully constructed in a colour palette that seems to flatter even my pasty complexion!  
These photos are just a handful of a morning's shoot, with photographer and student Jono Renton. They'll be edited and compiled for the look-book that's being sent off to potential stockists of the collection, which is really exciting, hoping to see these designs in London Boutiques before long - this also means my face is being sent around London which is a bit scary! We had a really relaxed morning, with minimal hair and make-up and several visits from Jono's curious cat, we were all done and off to the pub for a well deserved burger in no time. 
Take a look at these sites and pages for more about Jono and Still Small Voice: 
The Still Small voice Facebook page
The Still Small Voice Blog 
Jono Renton's website
Here's some behind-the-scenes snaps...

Panda the cat, I always find one to stroke. Meow.

Having a preview!

Quick change

Laura on the left and Harriet on the right...and middle.

NTU Fashion Design and Fashion Knitwear shows

On Thursday and Friday evenings I went along to the final shows of the Nottingham Trent students of Fashion Knitwear, and Fashion Design. With it being an increasingly reputable University for Arts courses, I was really interested in what the students had to offer, but I left with really mixed feelings. There were the designs that grabbed me immediately, for being beautiful, fresh, innovative and flattering, and there were designers whose shock factor got a bit samey after a while.

I feel like this post could be a bit, 'Emperor's New Clothes'. I could sit and say everything was wonderful and so much was different, like many are quick to do in order to please and conform. However I'm going to be completely honest: I'm someone who appreciates timelessness, craftsmanship, originality, and strong, sustainable design. Call me an unimaginative prude, but I really cannot see the point in designing a jumpsuit where your arm is stuck in a sleeve which is attached to your rear, it just doesn't look good! The pattern cutting was very clever no doubt, but how I wished that skill had been used to make a design which made the model look amazing! Maybe that's not what the designer was going for. I realise some will read this and argue that Fashion is Art, but Art is a very objective thing, this is just me being honest about how I walked away feeling. Basically, I was really surprised by the amount of students who were creating designs that were so unadaptable to real life rather than the runway. 

Okay so with that little rant over I shall now talk about some of the designers that made me want to run backstage, throw their collections over my shoulders, give them a kiss for being so clever and run away knowing I had some serious talent in my arms, even though I would certainly not be fitting in to the tiny model sizes. I got so excited each time something emerged that I could envisage on someone other than the model adorning it, for we're not all 6 ft and flawless. I just felt really proud of these designers. Although I knew nothing about them other than the name I had in front of me on the list, and only had about 5 outfits to judge them by, there were a few which immediately stood out as 'ones to watch'. I really want to take another look at several of these students' work because a few seconds on the runway didn't satisfy my appetite, so I will be trying to do so before focusing on their work in more detail. Until then, here's some photos. I'll post collections that provoked the mixture of responses from me, so you can make up your own mind. (Click on images to see them full size.)
Harriet x

KNITWEAR

Designers - top to bottom left to right: Natalie Stead, Claire-Louise Wright, Kristabel Plummer, Maria Zwerger, Gemma Cooper, Sneya Rajani, Emily Derrick.

FASHION DESIGN

Designers - top to bottom: Alice Wedge, Florenze Wong, Megan Bovingdon, Lauren Stevenson, Chloe Mason, Harry Crowe, Charlotte Rutherwood.